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Fashion’s circular takeback programs are difficult, complex and growing in popularity - Glossy

Fashion’s circular takeback programs are difficult, complex and growing in popularity - Glossy


Fashion’s circular takeback programs are difficult, complex and growing in popularity - Glossy

Posted: 06 Apr 2021 09:03 PM PDT

Circularity has become a buzzword in fashion over the last five years, with more brands introducing ways to extend the life of a product or turn it into something else after it's been worn. Brands regularly publicize what is done with products after they've been collected. But less is known about the process of getting those used products out of customers' hands and back to the brand — it isn't easy.

The takeback program can take many forms. Brands including Patagonia, Eileen Fisher and Cuyana have various methods for collecting and processing products. For example, the products are obtained via mail or in-store drop-offs, and they're processed internally or with the help of a third party. Despite their complexity, these programs' popularity is growing. Eileen Fisher took back 19,000 articles of clothing in March, up from 6,000 in January and 8,000 in February. Since launching its program in 2009, the brand has taken in 1.5 million pieces of clothing in total. Swedish footwear brand Vagabond Shoes reports having taken in two-and-a-half tons of shoes in 2019 alone.

With customers hungrier than ever for sustainable fashion, takeback programs are likely to continue to grow in prominence. But their complexity means that brands like Rothy's, which announced last week its intention to create such a program in the next year, are being careful about how they build such programs. 

Cynthia Power, head of renewal at Eileen Fisher, said that one of the toughest things about managing takebacks is volume. Clothing is collected at the brand's 65 stores around the country, and each piece must be sorted by hand at one of two warehouses in Seattle and Irvington, New York. To make collection easier, store associates hold returned products at the store until they have a large enough collection to send to the warehouse in one large bulk shipment. Customers can also send products straight to the warehouse, but Power said in-store takeback is more common.

"Even now, we're still learning and figuring it out," Power said. "For a while, we only resold perfect-condition product and recycled everything else. Only in the last year did we decide that we can resell more heavily used product at a lower price point, which changes our whole sorting process. So it's definitely still changing all the time."

Other companies get around the complexity of sorting product by outsourcing it to others. ThredUp is a popular choice, powering the takeback programs of several brands including M.M.LaFleur and Cuyana. M.M.LaFleur founder and CEO Sarah LaFleur said she started including a ThredUp bag with every shipped order to encourage customers to send clothes to ThredUp when they're done with them. Meanwhile, for its takeback program, swim brand Fair Harbor uses a company called 2ReWear that launched at the end of July. 

Saskia Van Gendt, head of sustainability at Rothy's, is in the middle of creating a pilot takeback program and said the amount of options has been dizzying.

"Even though people have been doing this, it's still kind of uncharted," she said. "We're still trying to figure out what the best steps are for taking products back, what partners we should use, how our stores can play a role. Everything is on the table. This is a learning year for us."

And brands are increasingly creating products with eventual takeback in mind. Another Tomorrow, a sustainability-focused brand, is launching its takeback program in the second half of 2021, but it has been planning for it since the brand launched in 2020. Every piece can be sold back to the company for a set price. Styles also come with a unique QR code that, when scanned, shows the history of the product and encourages customers not to throw it away when they're done with it.

"In our case, our resale model is underpinned by a digitized product ecosystem, where each garment has its own digital identity," said Another Tomorrow founder Vanessa Barboni Hallik.

Brands also need to think about how to incentivize these programs. Adidas' recycled Futurecraft Loop sneaker has an obvious incentive, where customers need to send in their shoes in order to receive another pair. But for other brands, offering a gift card is usually enough. As encouragement, Eileen Fisher provides a $5 gift card for every piece given back to the brand, as do Madewell and sneaker brand Thousand Fell. (The latter lets customers send its sneakers to either Thousand Fell or its retail partner, Madewell.)

The final piece in the takeback program is making sure customers know that it's an option. But here, too, brands need to be careful. Power said that Eileen Fisher still holds back on marketing its program too strongly. Occasionally, the company goes big — like two years ago, when it featured window ads in every store stating, "We'd like our clothes back, please." But, in general, she said it's important to make sure the messaging is commensurate with the brand's ability to take back clothes. 

"I wish we did have more messaging around takeback," Power said. "The way we've done it has been really sporadic, but we don't want to overwhelm our logistics. Someone big like Patagonia can message about their takeback all the time, but for everyone else, you need to be careful."

Viking Baseball Sweeps Minnesota Duluth in Convincing Fashion - Augustana College Vikings

Posted: 06 Apr 2021 02:46 PM PDT

DULUTH, Minn. -- The Augustana baseball team won its fourth and fifth games in a row with a Tuesday afternoon sweep at the Bulldogs of Minnesota Duluth. The Vikings move to 15-4 overall and 11-4 within the NSIC. The Vikings won game one 10-2 and game two 13-4. 

Game One
Senior lefty Koby Bishop got the start for the Vikings in game one and went the distance in the seven-inning affair. Bishop allowed just two runs on seven hits throughout the game and struck out eight Duluth hitters. He moves to 3-1 on the season with 29 strikeouts in 21.2 innings pitched. 

Augustana scored in five-of-seven innings in game one and notched two in the top of the first. 

Sophomore outfielder Carter Howell took a hit-by-pitch to lead off the game, stole a base and advanced to third when senior outfielder Riley Johnson reached on an error. After a wild pitch scored Howell, Johnson came around for the 2-0 lead on an RBI single from senior infielder Chrisitan Kuzemka. 

In the top of the second, Howell smoked an RBI double for a 3-0 Viking lead. The Bulldogs quickly got that run back with an RBI single in the bottom of the third before Augustana took control with a four-run frame in the fourth inning. 

Up 3-1 in the fourth, junior catcher Will Olson was hit by a pitch and junior outfielder Jaxon Rosencranz singled to set the table. With two outs and Olson and Rosencranz in scoring position, Howell singled to left field to drive in both runs and push the lead to 5-1. After a Howell steal of second base, junior infielder Jordan Barth drove him in with a single and advanced to second on the throw. Johnson then singled in Barth for the 7-1 lead. 

In the top of the fifth, sophomore utility man Tony Lanier drove in a run with a fielder's choice. After a Kuzemka leadoff home run in the seventh inning, Lanier scored the final run for Augustana on a fielder's choice to push the lead to 10-1. 

Duluth scratched a run across in the seventh, before Bishop put the finishing touches on the 10-2 victory. 

Offensively, Kuzemka and Howell paced the Vikings with three hits apiece. Kuzemka scored twice and drove in two with the aforementioned homer while Howell doubled, scored twice, drove in three and stole two bags. 

Barth and Rosencranz also tallied multi-hit games while Johnson (who also stole two bases), Olson and Lanier finished with one hit apiece. 

Game Two
Kuzemka and Howell stayed red-hot at the plate in game two, leading the way in an 18-hit, 13-run outburst for the Vikings. 

Down 1-0 in the top of the second, sophomore Mitch Stroh tied things up with an RBI double down the left-field line. After scoring in the second and third innings, the Bulldogs took a 4-1 lead over the Vikings, a lead that evaporated rather quickly, starting in the top of the fourth. 

After Kuzemka walked and stole second, Lanier smoked an RBI double to right-center to cut the lead in half. Lanier later came around to score on an RBI groundout from Stroh to make the score 4-3 in favor of Duluth. 

In the top half of the fifth, Barth and Johnson reached second and third base on some sloppy Bulldog defense. Senior shortstop Sam Baier then tied the game with a double to center field. Baier and Johnson proceeded to score on a Kuzemka RBI single, giving the Vikings a 6-4 lead, one they would not surrender the rest of the game. 

After a Lanier single, freshman catcher Drey Dirksen doubled for the fourth-straight Viking hit, driving in Kuzemka and Lanier and pushing the lead to 8-4. Howell doubled in Dirksen later in the inning for the sixth run scored in the frame and a 9-4 Viking lead. 

Up 9-4 in the top of the sixth, Biaer led the inning off with a triple and came around to score on an RBI single from Kuzemka. Kuzemka later scored on a sacrifice fly off the bat of Stroh, his third RBI of the day. 

Up 11-4 in the top of the seventh, Howell doubled down the right field line followed by a Baier single. Both came around to score on a two-run RBI triple off the bat of Johnson moving the score to 13-4 which was the final. 

Overall, the Vikings tallied 18 hits: three off the bats of Kuzemka, Howell and Johnson, two apiece from Lanier, Baier and Dirksen and one apiece from Barth, Stroh and freshman infielder Max Mosser

On the mound, junior righty Evan Furst earned the victory with 1.2 innings of scoreless relief. Freshman righty Caleb Kranz also threw 1.2 scoreless while Lanier and junior righty Thomas Bruss tossed scoreless frames to close out the game. 

Up Next
The Vikings take on the Marauders of UMary this weekend in a three-game series. Saturday's doubleheader starts at 1:30 p.m. while Sunday's game starts at noon. 
 

-- GoAugie.com -- 

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For You Page Fashion - Miami Student

Posted: 06 Apr 2021 08:09 AM PDT

In fashion, you want to look different, and to stand out from the crowd with your own unique style. Rejecting mainstream fashion and "basic" style trends is often a complex that afflicts the fashion-forward. 

Formerly known as musical.ly, TikTok has evolved into a completely unique platform of lifestyle, comedy, fashion, music, and many other genres of videos, tailored just for you by an eerily accurate algorithm on their explore feature, called the For You page (FYP). 

If you scroll even for just five minutes on TikTok, you're likely to stumble across a fashion video, whether it be a clothing haul, review or styling tip clip. 

You might even be surprised to find yourself actually liking the styles shown, because of the diverse range of trends that influencers experiment with on the app. 

Here's the question: is TikTok style basic? Or do we all just want to hate it, because TikTok is the app we all love to hate and hate to love? 

The 90's and early 2000s are making a huge comeback in the fashion world, partially thanks to the social media platform, as we welcome back low-rise jeans, butterfly clips and oversized silhouettes. 

TikTok has undeniably started some pretty cool trends in the last few years. Thrifting is at an all time high, which is bad for your own personal shopping motives at the Goodwill bins, but great for the environment. According to thriftworld.com, secondhand clothing reduces approximately 26 billion pounds of textile waste that ends up in landfills each year, and gives clothing a second life. 

You're also likely to find vintage pieces at a thrift or consignment shop that are on-trend at the moment for a fraction of the price of new clothing, and even cheaper than fast fashion go-tos like SHEIN or Forever 21 (which come with their own ethical conundrums). 

TikTok has also showcased men's fashion in a volume which hasn't been seen before on any other platform. 

Whether you love or hate TikTok, the inclusivity and representation on the app matters and has encouraged personal style expression for Gen Z in a revolutionary way. 

Fashion magazines have been and still are dominated by female models, women's clothing, and are built to serve a mostly female audience. But TikTok has popularized more androgynous styles of dressing for all and provided men with more styling options beyond t-shirts, jeans, and sneakers. 

Quarantine TikTok gave us all the athleisure trends our hearts could desire, as we sat in our rooms already wearing our athleisure and scrolling through set after set of matching hoodies and sweatpants, biker shorts (hey Princess Di), cropped crewnecks, bra tops and sneakers. 

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Looking good and feeling good while stuck in the house inspired many people to get more into fashion and styling, moving away from 'basic' styles of skinny jeans and plain t-shirts – the things of everyday dress. Because we were all at home and on our phones, thrifting, athleisure and other 90s and 2000s nostalgia trends became the new mainstream.

TikTok, love it or hate it, has become a compass for trends and a stylebook for everyone who wants to spice up their wardrobe. It encourages millions of people to experiment with their self expression and allows users to be a part of the fashion world in a completely new and interactive way. 

monsonma@miamioh.edu

Pandemic lends modern twist to French vintage fashion sales - Reuters

Posted: 07 Apr 2021 02:07 AM PDT

PARIS (Reuters) - In Artcurial's auction house overlooking the shuttered boutiques of the Champs Elysees avenue in Paris, vintage fashion expert Clara Vivien is overseeing the sale of hundreds of Chanel jackets, shoes and jewelled accessories - all online.

Slideshow ( 2 images )

Paris may be the world's fashion capital, but a third COVID-19 lockdown is once again sending lovers of luxury who have time to spare and money to spend on to their screens in search of a the next vintage Chanel dress or Hermes handbag.

Vintage was already enjoying a revival, Vivien said, driven by a growing discomfort with "fast fashion" among consumers and increasing environmental awareness. But the pandemic shifted more of it online.

"Vintage is exploding on the second-hand market," Vivien said. "People can't walk into boutiques and so shop at online auctions."

Handbags sell particularly well. "People who bought a Chanel or a Hermes bag today delight in the knowledge that their investment doesn't stop growing, and with the pandemic increases with no end in sight."

Fashion and online vintage clothing sales more than quadrupled at online auction in France in 2020 compared with pre-pandemic levels to 6.2 million euros, according to the online auction house aggregator Interencheres.

Antoine Saulnier, an auctioneer at Gros & Delettrez, said vintage fashion sales that before the pandemic might have attracted 100 online buyers were now drawing five or ten times that number.

"Prices are rising on some items as a result," said Saulnier as he prepared for the sale of nearly 600 Vuitton artefacts this week.

One collector who should know is Olivier Chatenet, a flamboyant 60-year-old stylist who spent his young adult life scouring the French capital's flea-markets and auction houses in the Drouot neighbourhood with his father.

His private collection is a treasure trove of Ungaro dresses, Chloe blouses and Sonia Rykiel overcoats. Several years ago he sold his entire Yves Saint Laurent collection - all 4,000 items.

"I try to be careful and buy at the right price," Chatenet said. But he admits he is not always successful.

"That moment the auction begins, when you have the item before you and you're overtaken by a frenzied desire to own it, you end up buying for more than you meant."

Reporting by Elizabeth Pineau; Writing by Richard Lough; Editing by Alex Richardson

Lena Dunham is launching a plus-size fashion collection - harpersbazaar.com

Posted: 06 Apr 2021 02:13 AM PDT

Lena Dunham is making moves in the fashion industry, launching a five-piece capsule collection with plus-size designer retailer 11 Honoré. The actress and writer is the first celebrity partner for the brand and hopes to try and help break down some of the barriers that plus-size women still face in the fashion industry, particularly in retail.

Speaking to The New York Times, Dunham said that she wants to stop the false perceptions and unnecessary judgement around women who are plus-size.

lena dunham

Courtesy

"There's so much judgment around bigger bodies and I think one of those judgments is that bigger women are stupider," she said. "They eat too much and don't know how to stop. Thin women must be discerning and able to use their willpower. Bigger women must be limited in their understanding of the world, and they keep doing things that are bad for them."

"[I want to ] send the message that being curvy is something to celebrate, not simply handle – it's not a problem to fix or cover up, but rather a really beautiful celebration of having a lot to give," she added. "It took me a long time, but I love the fact that my body tells a story of vastness, of ample-ness, of presence. And it's mine and I'm not going to spend a lifetime apologising for it – I'm going to celebrate it in clothing that says: 'Here I am.'"

lena dunham

Courtesy

The collection is made up of a printed dress, a yellow shirt, a tank top, a skirt and a blazer, all of which are named after places in SoHo, the area of Manhattan where Dunham grew up, and range from about £70 to £250.

View, and shop, the entire 11 Honoré x Lena Dunham collection here.

lena dunham

Courtesy

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